The goal is a fitted bodice with a square front neckline (medium-depth curved neck in the back), wedded to a full-circle skirt for loads of flare but no extra bulk at the waistline.
Seems easy, right? Only achieving *just* the right fit on the bodice is crucial, here, for the fit & flare look, so I've been tweaking the darts (up from waistline in front & back + in from side seams at front bust line) & trying different ways to control the neckline shape (can't just cut a square & sew it up or it'll gap, so it needs gathers, darts, pleats, or seaming here to hold a crisp shape above the bust but still have room *for* the bust below). Oh, & then getting the armhole shape to be tight enough (hate hate hate gaps under the arms!) but still full-shoulder-coverage & easy to wear/move/groove in, well, that's a whole other process...
I think I'm just about there. Plus, adding a belt so the fit can adapt to thinner//bloatier days.
Here's the latest iteration of the Square & Circle, done in a new, charcoal grey, stretch, cotton-blend twill for Fall/Winter layering (how I *do* love cardigan-season!):